Essaouira Guide: Where to Eat, Play, and Stay
Morocco has healed me more times than I can count.
From getting lost in the medina of Marrakesh to meeting friends-turned-family in Agadir, the land has always given me what I need.
But after a particularly trying month in Marrakesh, where the heat and the crowds felt all-consuming, a local friend suggested I head to Essaouira, a small beach town known as a surfer’s haven, to decompress. As a non-surfer who grew up in a small town and ran away to a big city the first chance she got, I brushed the suggestion aside until I hit a creative wall and needed silence to reset.
And that’s how I found myself at the foot of Essaouira’s old city, wondering what was waiting for me.
Each Moroccan city has an energetic signature. And if Marrakech is known for its culture and vibrant nightlife, then Essaouira is its quiet, moody older sister.
The streets are calmer, with less urgency in the souk. Shop owners will greet you with a nod and a cup of atay, as they flip through their newspapers, leaving you to browse. The sound of the ocean is never far, with seagulls decorating the landscape and salt hanging heavily in the air.
Where Marrakech fills you with urgency, Essaouira invites you to slow down. On the surface, there’s less to explore. No Michelin star restaurants or big sprawling resorts. The roads are quiet, the shops are simple, and it costs 8 dirham to go from one end of the city to another.
What you’ll find in Essaouira is ease and a softness that leaves you open to it all.
Where to Stay – Essaouira Hotels
For me, a good trip always starts with a good hotel.
I’ve looked at other properties and Airbnb’s in Essaouira, but have found myself returning to Villa Maroc time and time again for good reason. Known as Morocco’s first riad hotel, Villa Maroc’s carefully curated aesthetic makes you feel like you are in the private house of your favorite artist. The hotel is equally spacious and homey, with decor that competes with any Pinterest board. From the rooftop breakfast to private dining rooms and spa, the entire experience feels like a sanctuary. Perfectly located at the entrance of the medina, you’ll be steps away from all that Essaouira has to offer, with the option to book a sea-view room.
Where to Eat in Essaouira
The first time I heard about Mimti Essaouira, it felt more like a riddle. “They’re only open 12-3 pm,” my best friend Sara said. She’d fallen in love with Essaouira on her first trip to Morocco, and has made it her second home ever since. “Oh, and their menu changes every day,” she added.
“And they only take cash, and are closed Sunday and Monday.” It sounded more complicated than nearly any New York restaurant I’ve ever been to. But by the first bite, you’ll understand why. Who knew salt-cured sardines could be one of the most delicious things you’ve ever tried? If you’re lucky enough to head to Mimti and they have cookies available, make sure you get at least one of each flavour. The same goes for the sourdough bread. Get two slices of those, actually.
Where to Get the Best Facial: Azur Art & Spa
As a wellness and beauty writer, I’ve had some incredible facials with incredible estheticians. So imagine my surprise when I walked out of a random everything spa in Essaouira, with skin that looked rejuvenated in ways I’d never seen.
The kicker? It was just a Hydrafacial, but it also included radiofrequency and a facial drainage that sent me to another planet. My esthetician only spoke French and Arabic, so I couldn’t ask her to walk me through the treatment, but the results spoke for themselves.
Where to Go for a Hammam: Villa Maroc
One of the (many) perks of staying at Villa Maroc is the on-site hammam. I say that because after a hammam, I need a nap. I always opt for the traditional beauty hammam and pair it with the face modelege or scalp & shoulder massage for a full reset.
If you’ve never been to a hammam before, expect to feel the cleanest you’ve ever felt. My first time left me shocked and slightly appalled. At one point, I thought the soap was pilling as the Moroccan woman cleaning me scrubbed my arms and legs. A friend later explained that it wasn’t soap, it was my skin. Who knew I had three layers to lose?
Where to Get Coffee: Brotherhood Coffee or Mandala Society
Finding a good flat white was my biggest struggle in Essaouira. In a culture that places tea at the centre, finding a good, strong cup of coffee can be a challenge. And believe me, I tried.
After cups and cups of mid-level coffee, a friend recommended Mandala Society and Brotherhood Coffee. If you’re looking for a cafe to read or enjoy a matcha, Mandala Society is for you. If you’re looking for a very strong cup of coffee, then Brotherhood is what you’re after.
I’ve gone to Essaouira at least half a dozen times over the last few years, and each time I discover a new layer of the city and a new layer of myself. And while I’ll always love the buzz of Marrakech and the beaches of Tangier, Essaouira keeps pulling me back. And I’m sure it will do the same to you.
